Rogan uses a rich, brightly coloured paint made from castor oil and natural colours. The term Rogan means ‘Oil-based’ in Persian (روگان ) and refers to the thick substance formed by heating and then casting castor oil in cold water.

The process is time consuming. First the rogan has to be prepared by heating castor oil to boiling point over three days, cooling it and then as it thickens, mixing in appropriate amounts of colours. The pastes of yellow, red, white, green, black and orange are kept in earthen pots in water to keep them moist. A Thin iron rod, flat at both ends, is used to paint.

The making of the Rogan paste is done in the forest where the artisans mix oil and natural colour. After it is mixed with natural colours, the paste is drawn out into a fine ‘thread’ with a metal stylus or ‘Kalam’. The artisans then place a small amount of this paint paste into their palm and at body temperature, the paint is carefully twisted across the cloth into motifs and patterns using the ‘Kalam’. Next, the artisan folds the fabric thereby printing its mirror image if so required. The finer details are then added thus completing the Rogan painting.

The rogan paste once prepared is mixed with various colours and is laid on cloth with the help of a stylus. No prior design or layout is made on the cloth, the patterns and designs are created by the artisan extempore.

Frequently, half of a design is painted, then the cloth is folded to create a mirror image on the folded side in opposite direction of the designed part of the fabric. The designs included traditionally floral motifs, animals, and local folk art is now transcended into constantly evolving higher art form of innovative influx of design expression that bedazzles mind.

Traditionally, the craft was pursued to beautify bridal clothing of the regional tribes, beautiful borders and floral patterns on Ghagras, odhni and bed spreads were painstakingly painted. However, it being a dying craft with more people showing interest in it in the form of wall pieces, ‘Rogan kaam’ has gained popularity as Rogan art in today’s time.

We endeavour to revisit the historic art and update with nouvelle touch for aspiring fashion enthusiast.